Daniel Neilson enjoys a walk around Borrowdale learning about its most interesting ex-resident, the cave-dwelling Millican Dalton.
In September 1913, Millican Dalton, an ‘expert mountaineer and camper’, advertised a taste of ‘real adventures and experiences’ in a local magazine.
The trip, he promised, would include:
- lost in mountain mist
- thunderstorm on the mountains (weather permitting)
- dangling over the precipice
- astride the Razor Ridge
- varied hairbreadth escapes (arranged by circumstances)
As adventurous as it all sounded, I didn’t particularly want my walk to include any of the above. But, being the Lake District in spring, you could never be sure. What I did want to see was the cave where Millican Dalton had lived for 40 consecutive summers, earning him the nickname of ‘the Caveman of Borrowdale’. A clerk from London, he moved to the Lake District in 1904, aged 36, in pursuit of a simple life of ‘romance and freedom’. As a guide, he claimed first ascents across the Lake District, off ered mixed camps and, rather endearingly, called himself the Professor of Adventure.
I wanted to know more, so after setting base the night before at YHA Borrowdale and examining the huge map in the bar, I planned a walk that would lead through the ‘Jaws of Borrowdale’ to Millican’s Cave, before skirting around Grange Fell and back into YHA Borrowdale (recent winner of the best hostel or bunkhouse at the The Great Outdoors Awards).
The route
Distance: 8 miles (13km)
Ascent: 489m (1,604ft)
Start/finish: YHA Borrowdale
Map: OS Explorer 1:25k
(OL04) English Lakes — North-western area
- From YHA Borrowdale, take the footpath north (don’t cross the bridge) and follow the River Derwent along the Cumbria Way. As an option, just after New Bridge (NY 2511 1518) follow the footpath up Lingy Bank to join the bridleway to visit Castle Crag, an impressive little hill. It’s also one half of the ‘Jaws of Borrowdale’ that defend the valley (its opposite number, Grange Fell, comes later in the walk). But to get to Millican Dalton’s cave, follow the Cumbria Way through the forest to NY 2518 1606. Here you’ll see a little path and ‘Caves’ marked on the OS 1:25,000 maps. Move on to the second cave. Be sure to seek out the inscription reading “Don’t!! Waste Worrds”, chiselled into the cave wall by either Millican or a friend.
- Head back down to the Cumbria Way and follow it north to the foot of Derwent Water. At Great Bay (NY 2555 1878), follow the footpath over the footbridge and immediately right towards Borrowdale Hotel.
- Turn left along the road to the next group of buildings and follow the footpath sign around the barn and into the woods at NY 2617 1829.
- Climb through the woods until you reach a footbridge. Don’t cross it, but turn south and follow Watendlath Beck to Watendlath. 5 From Watendlath, follow the bridleway southwest back to Rosthwaite. Cross over the footbridge and through the village, following the footpath back to YHA Borrowdale.
This route has been created by YHA to provide inspiration and to aid planning and preparation of your walk. It doesn’t replace the need for an OS Map or the OS Maps App to navigate your walk safely. Digital maps are a guide and do not always reflect the conditions on the ground, ensure you are aware of your immediate surroundings.
Photo credit: photoseller92 / Kevin Eaves / Adobe Stock
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